The story of Black Lake

Here is something rare: the water between this lake's two halves changes direction with the seasons. In summer it flows from Big Lake into Little Lake, and in winter it runs the other way. Black Lake lies on Mount Durmitor at 1,416 metres, at the foot of Međed Peak, 3 km from the town of Žabljak. It is a glacial lake, the largest and best known of 18 on the mountain.

Its two parts are joined by a narrow strait that dries up in summer. Big Lake is larger in area, but Little Lake, with a maximum depth of 49.1 metres, is deeper and holds more water. Mountain streams feed it, the best known being Mlin Creek, while others appear only when Durmitor's snow melts. Underground, its waters split toward two rivers, the Tara and the Piva.

A 3.5 km path circles the lake; streams cross it in two places and can be tricky. On the shore, the Katun restaurant serves traditional Montenegrin dishes.